Drunken chicken is a classic cold appetizer from the Jiangnan region of China, particularly Shanghai, where dishes are often prepared with light seasonings to highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients. Steamed chicken legs are rolled into tight logs, chilled in an ice bath, then soaked overnight in a Shaoxing wine brine infused with ginger, green onion, star anise, jujubes, and goji berries. By the time you slice it, the chicken is juicy, lightly gelatinous, and infused with the fragrance of Shaoxing wine in every bite. Served chilled, it has a light and refreshing quality that makes it especially welcome during the hot summer months, whether enjoyed as an appetizer or as part of a simple family meal. It also tastes even better the next day, making it an ideal make-ahead dish for entertaining.
My husband is the one who taught me my brine was right, because the day after I tested a batch I caught him standing at the open fridge, eating slices straight from the container with a cold beer.
I cut the wine down from the boozy traditional formula and switched from a whole carved chicken to bone-in skin-on leg quarters that are easier to portion at home. It is now the dish I pull out when his parents come over for dinner, and it never asks anything of me on the day they arrive.
In my kitchen the work splits across two days. On day one I toast salt with Sichuan peppercorns, debone and season the legs, simmer a quick stock from the bones, steam the rolled chicken, shock it in an ice bath, and slide it into the cold brine overnight. The next day all I do is slice it thin and plate it with a little of the brine spooned over the top, and I hope you give this one a try at home using the directions below.
Ingredients
My ingredient list is very simple, and many of the ingredients do double duty across the marinade, stock, and brine. I group them by what they do in the dish:
Chicken: I use bone-in skin-on chicken leg quarters, which include both thigh and drumstick. The skin firms up great when chilled and the dark meat stays juicy through the steam and the overnight soak. If you prefer a different cut, you can also try boneless skinless chicken breast, divided horizontally into 2 big thin pieces and pounded even with a meat tenderizer so they cook through at the same rate when steamed.
Seasoning rub: Salt and Sichuan peppercorns are toasted together in a dry pan, then rubbed on the chicken before it steams. Toasting wakes up the citrusy fragrance of the peppercorn and gives the seasoning a fuller flavor.
Wine: Shaoxing wine shows up in 2 places, a small splash in the marinade and a bigger pour in the brine. For drunken chicken I do not substitute dry sherry, the Shaoxing is one of the main ingredients and you taste it through the whole dish. Use a good-quality bottle if you can, a cheap one tastes harsh once it goes cold.
Aromatics: Ginger and green onion also do double work, in the short marinade for the chicken and in the simmered stock.
Brine spice and sweetness: One whole star anise gives the brine a warm sweetness in the background, more than that and the dish starts to taste like braise instead of cold appetizer. Dried jujubes and goji berries are both optional.
How to Make
1. Toast the seasoning: Combine the salt and ground Sichuan peppercorns in a small dry pan. Toast over medium-low heat, shaking the pan, until fragrant. Cool on a plate before it touches the chicken.
2. Debone the chicken legs: Lay each leg skin-side down, slide a sharp knife along the bone, and slice the meat free from all sides. Near the joint, use a sawing motion to release any tough tendons. Set the bones aside for the stock.
3. Pound the meat even: Use the back of the knife to pound the thick part of the thigh until the chicken sits at one even thickness.
4. Marinate: Sprinkle the toasted salt and Sichuan peppercorns over the chicken legs. Top with the marinade Shaoxing wine, smashed green onion, and sliced ginger. Massage the seasoning in and set aside while you start the stock.
5. Build the stock: Chop the leg bones in half if you have a heavy knife or cleaver, optional but it releases more flavor. Drop the bones into a small pot with water, ginger, green onion, star anise, and jujubes. Bring to a boil, then simmer on medium-low, skimming foam as it rises.
6. Finish the brine: Strain the stock, then pour into a heatproof container and stir in goji berries, salt, sugar, and the larger pour of Shaoxing wine. Stir until the sugar and salt dissolve, then chill in the fridge.
7. Roll the chicken: After the chicken has marinated, roll each leg into a tight log, skin side out. Place the rolled leg on aluminum foil and wrap it tightly into a sealed cylinder, twisting the two ends.
8. Steam: Set up a steamer with water in the pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Place the foil-wrapped rolls on the steaming rack and steam until the center is cooked through. Test by inserting a toothpick through the center, the juices should run clear.
9. Ice bath: Prepare an ice bath in a big bowl with plenty of ice and water. Lower the foil-wrapped rolls into the ice bath and let them cool completely. The shock is what gives the cooked chicken its tight, springy texture.
10. Soak overnight: Once the rolls and the brine are both completely cool, unwrap the foil and transfer the chicken to a deep container, pouring the juices from the foil in too. Strain the brine over the chicken through a mesh colander, drop the goji berries back in, and discard the rest of the solids. Seal and marinate in the fridge overnight.
11. Slice and serve: Slice the cold chicken into thin pieces, lay them on a plate, and drizzle a small amount of the brine over the top. Garnish with chopped green onion and a few goji berries. Serve cold or at room temperature.
Cooking Tips
Pound the thick part of the thigh down: The thigh is denser than the drumstick, so if I skip this step my roll comes out undercooked at the center while the outside is dry. A few firm taps with the back of my knife is all I need to even it out.
Twist the foil ends tight: The roll holds its shape because of the foil, not the meat. I twist both ends like a candy wrapper, and my chicken comes out of the steamer as a clean cylinder ready to slice.
Chill the brine completely before the chicken goes in: When I have rushed this step in the past, the warm brine overcooked the surface of my chicken and pulled the skin loose. I do not skip the fridge time, I give the brine all the time it needs.
Save the brine for a second round: The strained brine is too good for me to throw out, so I use it to pickle a few soft-boiled eggs or marinate a piece of cooked tofu for another day. I keep it sealed in the fridge and use it up within 2 days.
Serving Suggestions
When this drunken chicken dish comes off the cutting board I usually plate it cold, with a small pour of brine and a scatter of green onion and goji berries on top. It is an appetizer, not a main, so I keep the portion small and the table around it bigger. A simple pairing I recommend to readers is Chinese egg drop soup, any Chinese vegetable stir fry recipes you like, and a bowl of steamed rice.
When guests are coming over, I treat drunken chicken as the lead-off cold plate and build a small dinner party menu around it. A few warm dishes like a side of bok choy with oyster sauce, a noodle or garlic fried rice dish, and one more protein cover most tables.
Frequently Ask Questions
Why do you steam the chicken instead of poaching it?
I tried both and steaming kept the chicken juicier and held more of the seasoning on the meat. Poaching is the traditional method, but at home I find the brine does plenty of the flavor work after the cook, so I do not need a flavored poaching liquid too.
Why does my chicken roll fall apart when I slice it?
When this happens to me, it is usually because I did not twist the foil ends tight enough, or I tried to slice the chicken before it was fully chilled. I re-roll a little tighter the next time and give the rolls a full overnight in the fridge before I take a knife to them.
How long does drunken chicken keep in the fridge?
I keep mine in its brine in a sealed container and use it up within 4 days. I leave the chicken submerged until I am ready to slice, because the meat dries out quickly once it is out of the liquid. Do not freeze this one, the cold-set texture and the gelatinous skin do not come back the same after a thaw.
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Drunken Chicken (醉鸡)
Ingredients
- 2 bone-in skin-on chicken leg quarters (includes thighs) (*Footnote 1)
Marinade
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
- 1/4 teaspoon ground Sichuan peppercorns
- 2 teaspoons Shaoxing wine
- 1 green onion , smashed
- 3 slices ginger
Stock
- 2 cups water
- 1 “ ginger , sliced
- 1 green onion , coarsely chopped
- 1 star anise
- 3 dried jujubes (Optional)
- 15 goji berries (Optional)
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon sugar
- 1/2 cup Shaoxing wine
Topping
- Chopped green onion for garnish
Instructions
Marinate the chicken
- Combine the salt and Sichuan peppercorns in a small pan. Toast over medium-low heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small plate to cool.
- Debone the chicken legs (see the step-by-step guide above in the blog post), setting the bones aside for the stock. Using the back of the knife to pound the thick part of the meat so that it is an even thickness.
- Sprinkle the toasted salt and Sichuan peppercorns over the chicken legs. Top with the Shaoxing wine, green onion, and ginger. Use your hand to gently massage the seasonings in and set aside for 15 minutes.
Prepare the stock
- Use a cleaver or strong knife to chop the leg bones in half (Optional, to release more flavor). Add them to a small pot with the water, ginger, green onion, star anise, and jujubes.
- Heat over medium-high heat until bringing to a boil, then reduce to medium-low heat. Simmer for 30 minutes, skimming the foam from the top occasionally. Transfer the stock to a heat proof container once done.
- Add the goji berries, salt, sugar, and Shaoxing wine. Stir until the sugar and salt are fully dissolved. Place the stock in the fridge to cool down completely.
Steam the chicken
- After the chicken has marinated, roll each leg into a tight log, skin side out.
- Place the rolled chicken leg on a piece of aluminum foil. Wrap the leg with the foil to seal it completely.
- Set up a steamer by adding water to the pot and bringing to a boil over medium-high heat.
- Place the chicken rolls on the steaming rack and steam over medium-high heat for 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the size of the chicken legs. At the 15-minute mark, check the doneness by inserting a toothpick through the center of the chicken and the juices run clear. Let cook for another 5 minutes if needed.
- Prepare an ice bath by adding ice and water to a big bowl. Place the cooked chicken rolls into it and let cool completely.
- Once the chicken rolls and brine are completely cooled, remove the chicken legs from the foil and transfer into a deep container, collecting the juices from the rolls as well.
- Lay a mesh colander over the container, then strain and pour the brine over the chicken. Add the goji berries back to the chicken, discarding the rest of the solid ingredients. Seal the container and let marinate in the fridge overnight.
- To serve, slice the chicken into 1/2” (1 cm) pieces, drizzle a small amount of the brine, and garnish with green onions and goji berries. Serve cold or at room temperature as an appetizer.
Notes
- I like to use skin-on chicken thigh, because the taste is very rich and the texture of the chicken skin is prized in traditional Chinese cooking. If you prefer a different cut, you can also try to use boneless skinless chicken breast. If using chicken breast, divide the breast horizontally into two big thin pieces. Then pound them even with a meat tenderizer.
Nutrition
Did you make this recipe?
I’d love to hear how it turned out for you! Please take a moment to leave a 5-star rating ⭐️ and share your thoughts in the comments further down the page. It really helps others discover the recipe too.
frank
in the pic when you marinade the chicken, is that scallion or chinese green onion?
Ann
I have followed you for some time with success! I have everything I need to make this. What do I serve alongside? Family of two. No guests these days!
Thank you for advice.
Maggie
Hi Ann, this dish is an appetizer that goes with most of the stir fries and soups. You can serve it with an egg drop soup and a quickly fried vegetables with steamed rice or noodles.
Here are some recommendations that are quick to make and suitable for a weekday dinner:
https://omnivorescookbook.com/chinese-egg-drop-soup/
https://omnivorescookbook.com/fried-cabbage/
https://omnivorescookbook.com/sesame-noodles/
If you’d like more food, you can also make another meat/seafood dish.
Happy cooking and let me know how it turns out 🙂